Montage steps

1. Preparation for Installation

Before commencing the assembly, thoroughly study the floor plan of the staircase and verify the ceiling opening and dimensions against the plan. Take note of the wall structure, the ceiling structure, and the space available at the stair exit.

Check the completeness of all staircase parts, unpack them, inspect them, and familiarize yourself with their layout and position in the stairwell. Follow the same process for the fittings and auxiliary materials required for installation.

Prepare all necessary assembly tools and aids carefully. Read through the entire text beforehand to obtain a solid theoretical understanding of the complete workflow.

Personnel and Screwing Recommendations

• Personnel: It is recommended to carry out the installation with at least two people, preferably three or four.
• Screwing Note: Before driving in any screw, apply a small amount of silicone (approx. two pea-sized drops) into the pre-drilled hole. This facilitates driving it in and reduces the risk of the screw breaking under tensile load.

2. Planning and Drilling Anchor Points

Installation begins by anchoring the 2nd outer string (exit string) to the wall. Because the anchoring holes are not pre-drilled, they must be planned so that they do not conflict with electrical installations, niches, or existing wall openings.

• First Anchor Point: Position it as close as possible to the stair ascent — ideally approx. 6 cm below the centre of the first step.
• Exit Anchor Point: Position it as close as possible to the exit, under either the last or second-to-last step, ensuring it does not hit the insulation layer of the ceiling.
• Corner Anchors: Additionally, anchor the outer strings in the corners as closely as possible.
• Intermediate Anchors: Place the remaining anchor points at intervals of approx. every two rises, also roughly 6 cm below the centre of the respective steps. Where possible, utilize existing holes under the steps (originally intended for securing the steps to the strings) to minimize the number of required cover caps.
• Landing Anchors: If the staircase features a landing, set two anchor points under each section (leg) of the landing.

If mounting against framed walls featuring reinforcements or studs behind plasterboard or OSB panels, align the anchor points exactly with the centres of these reinforcements. Where necessary, two anchor points can be placed vertically one above the other to increase stability.

3. Aligning and Connecting the Outer Strings

Press the 2nd outer string (exit string) against the wall, guide it up to the exit edge, support it, and align it. The upper edge of the vertical timber beam on the string must sit lower than the final floor height of the upper floor by exactly the thickness of the tread. Verify that the exit edge is perfectly level using a spirit level.

Attention: Uneven floors at the stair exit are a frequent issue, even with screed floors. If the final story height has not yet been established, bring the string to the correct height using suitable shimming plates. Once properly positioned, secure the string by anchoring it at all planned points, but do not tighten the fasteners too firmly yet to maintain ease of alignment.

Next, glue the wooden dowels into the 1st outer string (ascent string) and screw the threaded rods into the 2nd outer string to link the strings at the outer corner. Coat the joint interface, especially the front face of the 1st outer string, with glue.

Slide the ascent string onto the threaded rods and wooden dowels, push it toward the corner and against the wall, support it, and align it carefully. Screw the collar nuts onto the threaded rods and tighten the corner connection securely.

If the floor height is not yet final, adjust the string elevation using suitable shimming plates. Check the levelness of the saddle for the treads across both strings with a spirit level and make corrections if necessary. Anchor the 1st outer string to the wall at all designated points without tightening the screws too firmly yet.

Important Geometric Note: Pay strict attention to the straightness of the string. Unevenness in the wall must not be transferred to the string; use shimming plates where necessary. The staircase is manufactured to be exactly rectangular in its floor plan. If the exit is not at a perfect right angle, the strings and the anchor plate must be shimmed to correct the angle, ensuring a precise installation of the steps, landing, and inner string.

4. Pre-assembling the Exit Section

Unlike configurations without risers, the exit block must be built structurally before final wall mounting:

1. Apply silicone evenly to the rear edge of the second-to-last step where the final riser will interface.
2. Align the final riser and screw it into the tread from behind using three 5×45 screws.
3. Apply a thin layer of construction adhesive into the bottom of the groove of the last (exit) step. Place the exit step onto the riser and tap it securely with a rubber mallet until the riser is fully engaged in the groove. Optional: Klebeband (adhesive tape) can be used to provisionally hold this assembly together.
4. Prepare the 2nd inner string (exit string) by gluing wooden dowels into the front holes for the exit post, and insert additional wooden dowels into the horizontal saddle area for the second-to-last tread. Prepare the outer string by inserting wooden dowels for the second-to-last and last treads.
5. Apply silicone to the horizontal saddles, the front face of the inner string, and the contact faces of both the outer string and the final riser. Coat the dowel holes with glue and seat the pre-assembled section (second-to-last tread, final riser, and exit tread) onto the wooden dowels of the inner string. Tap the components tight with a rubber mallet.
6. Secure the second-to-last step from the string side to the inner string using a 6×60 screw.

5. Integrating the Exit Post

Attach the exit post to this pre-assembled section by sliding its housing over the exit step and seating it onto the wooden dowels on the front face of the string.

Prior to assembly, coat the housing and the contact surfaces facing the risers with silicone, and coat the dowel holes with glue. Screw the post firmly to the string using two 6×100 screws. Additionally, secure the exit step from the back of the post using a shorter screw.

6. Mounting and Anchoring the Exit Assembly

Guide the completed exit section to the exit edge, sliding the free ends of the steps onto the wooden dowels of the outer exit string, and tap the steps firmly into place. From the outer string side, secure the tread using a 6×60 screw driven into the hole under the second-to-last step.

The overlapping portion of the post on the inside must be hung onto the exit edge of the stair opening. Support the post, align it, and verify its levelness with a spirit level.

Plan and drill two anchor points and anchor the exit securely. This anchoring must pass through both the riser and the column together, aligned with the axis of the exit column. Ensure these anchor points are correctly positioned to avoid insulation and utility lines (electricity, water, or heating).

Status Check: The final two steps and their connecting riser are now joined to the exit strings, and the 2nd inner string (exit string) is connected to the post on the inside. This inner string currently remains only supported and is not yet permanently anchored.

7. Connecting and Aligning the Inner Strings

Glue the wooden dowels into the 1st inner string (ascent string) to connect the strings at the 1st inner corner. Coat the joint interface with glue, ideally on the front face of the ascent string. Lift this string and connect it in the inner corner to the already mounted 2nd inner string, securing the connection with two 6×100 screws.

Properly support and align the entire inner string assembly, just as was done for the outer sides. To accurately control the distance between the outer and inner strings, provisionally place a tread before the corner, another directly behind the corner, and tread No. 2 onto the wooden dowels. Verify the levelness during this test.

Once everything is correctly aligned, firmly anchor the ascent of the inner string to the floor under the first step using the floor anchor. The corresponding holes for this anchor are located under the 1st step.

Attention: Ensure that underfloor heating systems are strictly accounted for at this location!

Note: The floor anchor shares the hole on the side of the string with the future threaded bolt used to secure the first tread. Ensure that enough space remains for both components!

8. Installation of Step No. 1 (With Risers)

1. Apply silicone evenly across the entire surface of the horizontal saddles of both stair strings for the first tread, as well as onto the vertical string faces where they interface with risers No. 1 and No. 2.
2. Apply construction adhesive into the holes for the wooden dowels both in the strings and in the tread, and insert the wooden dowels into the strings.
3. Mount Riser No. 2: Apply silicone beads to the surface of the rear edge of tread No. 1, running approx. 1.5 cm parallel to the top and bottom of the tread. Fit riser No. 2 and screw it into tread No. 1 from the rear side using three 5×45 screws, wiping away any excess silicone.
4. Mount Riser No. 1: Insert riser No. 1 into the groove of the first tread, ensuring you apply construction adhesive into the groove beforehand.
5. Insert & Secure: From the underside of the tread, screw the threaded rods into the screw-in nuts. Place the tread along with both risers onto the wooden dowels in the strings and tap them tight with a rubber mallet.
6. Screw the collar nuts onto the threaded rods on the sides of the strings below the tread and tighten them securely. If there is no finished floor underneath the staircase, place shims under riser No. 1 to prevent it from slipping out of the tread groove.

9. Step-by-Step Installation of the Remaining Treads

Mount the remaining treads progressively from the ascent upwards:

1. Apply silicone evenly across the entire surface of the horizontal saddles of both stair strings for tread No. 2, as well as onto the vertical string faces where they meet riser No. 3.
2. Apply construction adhesive into the holes for the wooden dowels in the string and in the tread, and insert the dowels into the string.
3. Apply silicone beads onto the surface of the rear edge of tread No. 2, running approx. 1.5 cm parallel to the top and bottom of the tread. Fit the riser and screw it into the tread from the rear using three 5×45 screws, wiping away any overflow.
4. Apply construction adhesive into the bottom of the groove of riser No. 2.
5. Position tread No. 2 together with riser No. 3 onto the wooden dowels in the strings and into riser No. 2, tapping them tight with a rubber mallet.
6. Secure the tread from the string sides by driving a 6x60 screw into the hole under the tread.
7. Repeat this sequence for all subsequent steps up to the exit section.

Pre-assembled Step Exception: Because the second-to-last step is already integrated into the exit section, the step and riser immediately below it must be mounted separately. Slide that specific riser diagonally from below into the groove of the pre-mounted second-to-last step first, and then seat its corresponding tread onto its wooden dowels.

9.1 Landing Installation

The landing is handled exactly like a standard tread during assembly. However, due to its larger width, it must be reinforced and secured with screws at multiple locations. Apply silicone to the corresponding faces, reinforce the joints with construction adhesive and wooden dowels, and fix the individual components using screws. The extra width simply requires more anchoring points to ensure a stable and secure installation.

10. Final Tightening and Structural Inspection

Completely tighten all anchor points across the strings, ensuring that all connections are permanently and properly fixed. Thoroughly check the geometry of the staircase to ensure that all connections are aligned, the structure is stable, and all dimensions are precisely met.

11. Installation of the Balustrade Posts

• Exit Post: This post is already structurally integrated into the exit assembly.
• Corner Column: Insert the threaded rod into the screw-in nut located inside the corner step. Position the column vertically over it and guide the collar nut into the hole on the side of the post, then tighten it firmly. Ensure the post is correctly aligned so that its pre-drilled screw holes match the heights and orientations of the connected bottom rails and handrails.
• Start Post: Position the start post with its housing onto the mounted front edge of the first (or second) tread, and screw it firmly into the edge of the string through the riser using two screws. Prior to assembly, apply silicone into the housing and onto the contact surface facing the riser to ensure a stable, tight connection.

12. Installation of Bottom Rails, Balusters, and Handrails

1. Place the bottom rail (or rails) onto the axis of the posts at the prescribed height. Drive screws through the posts into both ends of the bottom rail to secure it firmly.
2. Apply silicone into all holes intended for the balustrade balusters, both within the bottom rails and within the handrails.
3. Insert the balustrade balusters into the pre-drilled holes in the bottom rail according to the layout plan.
4. Place the handrails on top of the balusters and screw them tight through the posts to establish a stable and rigid assembly.

13. Cleaning and Finishing Work

Clean the staircase thoroughly to remove dust and installation residues.

Cover all openings and connection holes with the custom-sized cover caps. Place the caps onto the holes with the rubber band side facing the edge of the hole and press them firmly by hand to lock them into place flush with the surface.

14. Curing Time

All glued and silicone-sealed connections require approximately 24 hours at normal room temperature to cure completely. Do not subject the staircase to structural loads or heavy foot traffic during this period.