Montage steps

1. Preparation for Installation

Before starting the installation, study the floor plan of the staircase thoroughly and check the ceiling opening as well as the dimensions against the plan. Pay close attention to the wall structure, the ceiling structure, and the available space at the stair exit.

Check the completeness of all staircase parts. Unpack them, inspect them, and familiarize yourself with their positioning in the stairwell. Ensure that all fittings and auxiliary materials are complete and lay them out ready for installation.

Prepare the assembly tools and all necessary aids. Read the instructions carefully beforehand to gain a good understanding of the entire assembly sequence.

Recommendations and Screwing Note

• Personnel: For installation, we recommend working with at least two, ideally three to four people.
• Screwing Note: Before driving in any screw, apply a small amount of silicone (approx. two pea-sized drops) into the pre-drilled hole. This facilitates driving it in and reduces the risk of the screw breaking under tensile load.

2. Planning the Anchor Points

The installation begins by anchoring the third outer stair string (exit string) to the wall. Since the anchoring holes are not pre-drilled, they must be planned and drilled so that no collisions occur with electrical installations, niches, or other wall openings.

To guarantee stable anchoring, place an anchor point as close as possible to the stair ascent — ideally approx. 6 cm below the centre of the first step. Another anchor point should be located as close as possible to the exit, below the last or second-to-last tread, and at a height that does not hit the insulation layer of the ceiling. Additionally, place an anchor point on each string near the corners.

Position the subsequent anchoring points approx. every two rises between the ascent and the exit, also ideally 6 cm below the centre of the tread. Wherever possible, use existing holes under the steps intended for anchoring the steps to the string to reduce the number of cover caps.

If the staircase features a landing, place two anchoring points under each section of the landing. If the walls in the stair area use a grid construction method — meaning they feature reinforcements and studs behind plasterboard or OSB panels — the anchor points must be aligned exactly with the centres of the reinforcements. If necessary, two anchors can be placed one above the other to increase stability.

3. Aligning and Connecting the Outer Corner Sections

First, press the third outer string (exit string) against the wall and guide it to the exit edge. Support and align it so that the upper edge of the vertical timber beam on the string sits lower than the final floor height of the upper floor by the thickness of the tread. Check that the exit edge is level.

Attention: Unevenness frequently occurs at the stair exit, even with screed floors! If the final story height has not yet been reached, adjust the string to the correct height using suitable shimming plates. Subsequently, secure the string at all anchor points, but do not tighten the screws too firmly at first.

Now, glue the wooden dowels in and screw the threaded rods into the second outer string to connect the strings at the second outer corner. Coat the joint — preferably the front face of the second outer string — with glue.

Subsequently, carefully slide the second string onto the wooden dowels, press it into the corner and against the wall, support it, and align it. Guide the threaded rods, which were previously inserted into this string, carefully through the opening on the side of the third outer string and screw them into the screw-in nuts (at least four full turns). This requires a good intuition, practice, and precise alignment of the components. Test-screw the threaded rods into the screw-in nuts prior to final assembly.

3.1 Assembly of the 1st Outer Corner

First, glue the wooden dowels into the first outer string (ascent string) and screw the threaded rods into the second outer string to connect the strings at the first outer corner. Coat the joint, particularly the front face of the first outer string, with glue.

Subsequently, slide the outer ascent string onto the wooden dowels and threaded rods, press it into the corner and against the wall, and align it. Screw the collar nuts onto the threaded rods (in the side openings) and tighten the corner connection.

If the final story height has not yet been reached, bring the string to the correct height using suitable shimming plates. Verify that the saddles for the treads on the strings are level and correct them if necessary. Subsequently, anchor the first and second outer strings to the wall at all points, ensuring the screws are not overtightened.

• String Shape: The string must not become wavy or copy the unevenness of the wall. Suitable shimming plates must be used for this purpose.
• Important Geometric Note: The delivered staircase is manufactured to be exactly rectangular in its floor plan. In case of deviations from a right angle at the exit, it is necessary to shim the strings (and the anchor plate) accordingly so that they maintain an exact right angle to each other after anchoring. Otherwise, a correct installation of the steps, the landing, and the inner string is not possible.

3.2 Preparing the Exit Connection

Now screw the threaded rods into the two holes on the side of the vertical timber beam of the third outer string (exit string). There is a drive-in nut located at the end of each hole. Insert a wooden dowel from above into the vertical timber beam to secure the connection.

4. Preparing and Installing the Inner Exit Components

Prepare the 3rd inner string (exit string) by gluing wooden dowels for the exit post into the two holes on the front face. Subsequently, coat the front face with glue and attach the exit post by screwing it to the string using two 6×100 screws. Then, screw the threaded rods into the two holes on the side of the exit post.

Now place the exit tread into the housing of the exit column — with the cutout facing the housing — and secure it from the rear side of the column with a shorter screw.

In the next step, position the inner exit string together with the column and the tread (just as previously done with the outer side) against the exit edge, support it, and align it. The distance between the two strings is defined by the anchor plate and the exit tread. Place the exit tread onto the wooden dowel of the vertical timber beam of the outer string and secure the connection with glue.

Now apply silicone to the string and to the post at the contact point with the anchor plate. Then slide the anchor plate onto the threaded rods and press it against the exit.

Finally, place the collar nuts onto the ends of all four threaded rods in the openings and screw them tight, ensuring that everything fits together correctly.

 

 

5. Fastening the Anchor Plate

Plan and drill 2 to 4 holes in the anchor plate for fastening it to the exit, and anchor the plate accordingly. Pay particular attention to the stability of the fastening and the position of the anchor points to avoid collisions with insulation as well as with electricity, water, or heating utilities.

At this stage, all three outer strings are already anchored to the wall. The anchor plate and the exit tread are also firmly secured. The 3rd inner string (exit string) is connected to the post on the inside. However, this inner string is currently only supported in the 2nd inner corner and is not yet anchored.

6. Connecting and Stabilizing the Inner Stair Strings

Glue the wooden dowels into the 1st inner string (ascent string) to connect the strings in the first inner corner. Coat the joint with glue, ideally the front face of the ascent string. Slide the 2nd inner string onto the wooden dowels and secure the connection with two screws (6x100). Lift this assembly and connect it in the second inner corner to the already mounted 3rd inner string. The procedure here is analogous to the first inner corner.

Glue the wooden dowels into the 2nd inner string to establish the connection of the strings in the second inner corner. Here too, coat the joint surface with glue — preferably the front face of the second inner string. Then slide the component with the dowels into the openings of the 3rd inner string and secure the connection with two screws (6x100).

Properly support and align the entire inner string assembly, just like the outer side. To better control the distance between the outer and inner strings, we recommend provisionally placing and mounting one tread before the corner, another directly behind the corner, and tread No. 2 onto the wooden dowels. Verify that they are level.

Once everything fits, firmly anchor the inner ascent string to the floor below the first step using the floor anchor. The holes for the anchor are located under the 1st step. Please take note of possible underfloor heating systems!

Note: The anchor shares the hole on the side of the string with the future threaded bolt for securing the first tread; therefore, ensure sufficient space remains!

7. Final Assembly of Tread No. 1

Next, mount tread No. 1:

1. Apply silicone evenly across the entire surface of the horizontal saddles of both stair strings.
2. Subsequently, apply the construction adhesive into the holes for the wooden dowels in the string as well as in the tread, and insert the wooden dowels into the string.
3. From the underside of the tread, screw the threaded rods into the screw-in nuts.
4. Place the tread onto the wooden dowels in the strings and tap it carefully with a rubber mallet.
5. On the string side below the tread, screw the collar nut onto the threaded rods and tighten it firmly.

8. Step-by-Step Installation of the Remaining Treads

Mount the treads progressively from the ascent upwards:

1. Apply silicone evenly across the entire surface of the horizontal saddles of both stair strings for tread 2.
2. Apply construction adhesive into the holes for the wooden dowels in the string as well as in the tread, and insert the wooden dowels into the string.
3. Place the tread onto the wooden dowels in the stair strings and tap it carefully with a rubber mallet until tight.
4. From the string side in the hole below the tread, secure the tread by screwing it to the string using a 6x60 screw.

Repeat this process in the exact same manner for all subsequent treads up to and including the second-to-last step.

8.1 Landing Installation

The landing is treated in the exact same manner as a regular tread during assembly. However, due to its larger width, it must be secured with screws at multiple additional locations.

9. Final Geometry and Tightening of Anchors

Now completely tighten all anchor points in the strings and the anchor plate, ensuring that all connections are secure and stable.

Subsequently, verify the geometry of the entire staircase structure. It is crucial that all strings and steps are correctly aligned and that the staircase is uniform and rectangular across its entire length. If there are minor irregularities, correct them to ensure the staircase stands optimally and the steps are perfectly in position.

10. Installation of the Balustrade Posts

Now mount the balustrade posts. The exit post is already secured at the exit.

For mounting the corner column, first insert the threaded rod into the screw-in nut of the corner step and position the column over it. Then insert the collar nut into the hole on the side of the post and tighten it firmly. Ensure the post is correctly aligned so that the pre-drilled holes for the screws match the height and orientation of the connected bottom rails and handrails.

Place the start post with its housing onto the offset front edge of the first (or second) tread and screw it firmly to the edge of the string using two screws. Prior to insertion, apply silicone into the housing to ensure a stable connection.

11. Installation of the Bottom Rails

Now mount the bottom rail or rails. Position the bottom rail onto the axis of the posts at the intended height. Subsequently, screw it firmly to the posts at both ends.

12. Assembly of the Balustrade Balusters and Handrail

First, apply silicone into all prepared holes for the balustrade balusters in the bottom rails and handrails. Then insert the balustrade balusters into the bottom rail according to the plan. Subsequently, place the handrail on top of the balustrade balusters and screw it through the posts.

13. Cleaning and Finishing Work

Finally, clean the staircase thoroughly and close all open holes with tight-fitting cover caps. Place the caps onto the respective holes with the rubber band side first and press them firmly into place by hand.

14. Curing Time

All glued and silicone-sealed connections require approximately 24 hours at normal room temperature to cure completely. Do not subject the staircase to loads during this period.